Many of you may not be aware, but I like food. I like to cook it and much more I like to eat it. While my blog here is primarily devoted to a) my theological/philosophical musings, b) news and my ranting about it and c) what’s happening with me, I thought that I would include some reviews of places to eat around D.C. if you’re ever in the area. So here’s the first…Bistrot du Coin.

The facade...excuse me, "la facade"
Dining at Bistrot du Coin is dining in France. If the two-thirds of the conversation going on in English and the one-third going on in French had been translated into Parisian, there would have been no distinguishable difference, apart from the English signs outside and the fact that the smoke of a thousand Gauloises did not obscure the view of the other side of the room. My waiter spoke French. The names of the dishes were in French (along with the English explanations). The dirty look from the maitresse d’ was in French.
The restaurant is located just northwest of Dupont Circle station (red line) on Connecticut Ave. And I do mean northwest. Detroit has nothing on D.C. for diagonal roads. The facade is rather unassuming. Just windows with a bunch of people sipping wine and gawking at you sitting behind them, like I was this evening. Having arrived at 5:45pm on a Saturday, I had no trouble securing a table. The hostess, who still liked me at this point, gave me what I feel must be the best table in the house: a microscopic table jammed in the corner created by the front window and the window alongside the front door. I was armed with my Kindle and prepared to read some P.G. Wodehouse, but the people-watching opportunity proved too much of a temptation. My Kindle remains fully charged.
My waiter appeared with a bottle of tap water and had the good sense to pause before pouring it. Fizzy water for me, mon ami! What rushed to mind was “avec gaz.” Not wanting to be the sort of fellow who speaks mediocre French to the evidently Parisian waiter, I fumbled for the adult English word for fizzy. My waiter supplied it: “Sparkling?” Yes, that’s it. Sparkling water, my good man. My inability to produce the word sparkling and my refusal to say “avec gaz” must have made him think I was German. The fact that the first thing that rushed to mind was the French term was, I think, a good thing. As I said, this place feels like France.
To start off, I ordered the gratinee des halles (the “h” is not elided here…thus “grah-tee-nay day ahl”). This is what they call French onion soup in France since they couldn’t just call it onion soup…I mean, who the heck would order “onion soup”? Here, we know what French onion soup means, as in France they know what gratinee des halles means…melted gruyere. This soup was more cheese than onions, bread or broth. Even when I finally got to the onions in the bottom, they were tender, well carmelized and sweet and I didn’t mind eating them. I would have liked the soup a bit hotter, but, hey, it was 90 degrees out…I’ll save my complaints for the winter.
Tempted as I was by the extensive mussel menu (I will be returning for the moules roquefort, provided the hostess doesn’t recognize me), I being only one man proceeded to the main course…navarin d’agneau. Don’t be fooled by the fancy French name. The key to French is not to pronounce the last three letters of any word, and when you do that, navarin d’agneau sounds a lot like “lamb stew.” It was ever so slightly garlicky with a thin tomato sauce, spring vegetables and big chunks of tender lamb. The lamb was a bit fatty, but nothing that couldn’t be avoided and nothing that did anything other than boost the flavor here. A hearty, rich country dish, this one, with turnips, carrots, peas, pearl onions (I ate around them…I’m sure they lent to the flavor, but I did not want to know how) and that delicious garlic tomato sauce. Along with this I had the house Cotes du Rhone. The navarin and the Rhone paired admirably and I did not get taken to the cleaners on the wine.
My waiter waited patiently while I sipped my wine, poked at the pearl onions and watched people walk by outside. When he had determined I was done with the navarin and the wine, he materialized to remove my plates. Knowing the sort of man he was serving, he slid a dessert menu in front of me and innocently said, “Just in case.” Just in case, my eye…this guy knew the fix was in. The dessert menu alone at Bistrot du Coin is enough to keep me coming back. Thirteen dessert selections and all of them French classics…excepting perhaps “Le Banana Split.” I ordered the “mont-blanc,” a chestnut mousse topped with crushed hazelnuts. I’d like another, please. And, hold on, mon frere! This dessert menu has a back side! On that side you will find listed cognac, armagnac and that delightful Normandy liquor known as calvados (for some reason, you pronounce all the letters on this one). Calvados is apple brandy and not everyone has it. Every country, it seems, has liquors it likes to keep secret, either because they’re delicious or because they are needed to start fires. Brazil has cachaca (fires); Mexico has mezcal (fires); Italy has grappa (both). France has the delicious calvados and she doesn’t seem to let a lot of people in on the secret. My chestnut mousse and calvados concluded the evening perfectly.
So, these things having been done, I paid my bill, stood up and turned around. The restaurant I had entered while it was still (relatively) quiet was now jam packed. The path along which my hostess had initially led me to my table was occluded by my erstwhile fellow diners. I walked along the path a bit. Blocked. I went a little further…still blocked. My Detroit sense that says “I must make it to an exit before some sort of violence breaks out” kicked in. I found a narrow passage betwixt tables through which a person of my girth could fit and I took it as the most direct passage to the egress. The hostess was not pleased. She told me I was supposed to walk all the way to the back of the restaurant, make a Michigan left and come back to the front. Well, sorry. I said as much. She did not look pleased. I have a feeling she’ll get over it.
All in all, this was an excellent dining experience and I would recommend the place. The food was not as good as Bistro d’Oc, another French restaurant here in D.C. (which I will formally review shortly, I’m sure), particularly the bread (d’Oc’s bread is just amazing), but as far as feel, this place had it. As I said, it was France, and food being more than just food but also everything that goes along with it, I would take this short trip down the red line to a country across the Atlantic any day of the week. And to the maitresse d’ whom I frustrated beyond all comprehension: I’m sorry; please let me back in and let me have that good table again!
The Washington, D.C. earthquake
We had an earthquake today! About half an hour ago…and I was completely oblivious. It just so happened when the quake struck, I was outside walking and so I didn’t notice it. Only when I arrived at my destination, Biagio, the local chocolate shop (five stars!), did I here about it. Two members of the staff were exiting the shop as I arrived. They related the experience to me. It lasted about 15 seconds and was strong enough not only to be felt but to shake a couple of chocolate bars off the shelves. And here I was concerned about a hurricane!
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